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Analysis of ice screws in climbing

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The contact surface between the ice and the ice screw was modeled as a frictionless interface and the hanger is bonded to the screw head. For all scenarios, a load of 1,800 lbs was applied to the end of the hanger.  Assuming the flat ice surface is the X,Y plane and the screw hole (-Z axis), the applied load vector is (0,-1738.67,465.87) lbs.  This 15 degree off vertical down (-Y axis) accounts for a slight outward direction of a climber’s fall.

A fixed support constraint was applied to the outer surface of the ice hemisphere and a displacement constraint of x=0 was placed on the end of the hanger to aid in solution convergence.


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